The Convent of St Francis in Vicalvi: A Blend of History, Spirituality and Miracles
The Convent of St Francis is situated just outside the village of Vicalvi, in the picturesque Comino Valley (Province of Frosinone). Nestled in a centuries-old forest of oak and chestnut trees, the complex enjoys the quiet solitude so beloved by the Saint of Assisi, a place that even today seems the ideal retreat from the chaos of modern life. Although the proximity of the motorway has improved access, the tranquillity of the site remains undisturbed.
The Life and Times of the “Poor Man of Assisi”
St Francis’s presence in this region is linked to two key moments in his life, as recorded in the chronicles and local tradition:
The Journey to the Gargano (1222)
It is said that in 1222 St Francis set out on a pilgrimage to Monte Sant’Angelo in the Gargano region. His route took him through the Ciociaria, passing through places such as Subiaco, the Arcinazzo highlands, Alatri, Casamari, San Domenico in Sora and Lake Posta Fibreno, before finally arriving in Vicalvi, where his stay lasted a full three years.
The Return from the Holy Land (1219)
According to another tradition, the convent was founded upon Francis’s return from The Holy Land during the Fifth Crusade. After the famous meeting with the sultan al-Malik al-Kāmil In Damietta, Francis is said to have crossed the Val di Comino on a mission to deliver a message of peace, received from the Ayyubid ruler, to the Christian clergy.
Attracted by the tranquillity of the place, the saint obtained from the Benedictine abbot of Monte Cassino the use of a humble church known as the Crucifix, with two small adjoining rooms that formed a primitive monastic cell. These structures became the nucleus of the future convent.
The Miracle of the Ampoule and the Rejection of the Priesthood
During his stay in Vicalvi, St Francis performed numerous miracles, such as causing water to gush forth from a nearby spring. He often went to pray at the picturesque the hermitage of Sant’Onofrio in Fontechiari.
A pivotal event marked his spiritual life right here: as he was due to travel to Atina to be ordained as a priest, Francis, tormented by doubts as to whether he was worthy of such a step, asked the Lord for a sign. That night, inside the chapel now known as “of the Apparition”, an angel appeared to him holding a vial of the purest water, and said to him:
“Anyone who wishes to touch the Lord’s body must have a heart as pure as the water in this vial.”.
Upon receiving the message, the saint declined the ordination, choosing to remain a humble friar for the rest of his life.
Architecture and Art Treasures
Although the present complex underwent restoration work in the 17th and 18th centuries and further alterations up until 1972, it remains a fine example of Cistercian Gothic architecture.
The Church of St Francis
Consecrated on 19 August 1229 built by Bishop Guidone of Sora (one year after the saint’s canonisation), it has a simple and austere façade. The interior consists of a single nave with cross-vault and a polygonal apse. Above the altar, an inscription dating from 1757 commemorates the saint’s three-year stay:
This chapel, dedicated to the Holy Trinity and our Saint Francis, which had fallen into disrepair, has now been restored to its original state in 1757.
Works and Spaces
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Frescoes: Inside, there are 14th- and 15th-century painting cycles and a wooden statue of the saint.
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The Cloister: It is square in shape, surrounded by a portico with round arches, and features a distinctive stone well in the centre.
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Refectory and Library: Spacious rooms that were once filled with ancient texts, serving as key centres of learning for the order.
Relics and Sacred Mementoes
The Convent of Vicalvi jealously guards the saint’s personal effects, making it a unique sanctuary:
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The Crucifix from the 10th–12th centuries: The wooden sculpture before which Francesco used to kneel.
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The Table-Cheek: The piece of wood that the saint used as a pillow.
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The Botticelli of San Francesco: A marble vessel for the wine used in the Mass.
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The Hood: Part of the original grey woollen habit.
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The Apparition Canvas: A painting depicting the miracle of the ampoule in the chapel of the same name.
Heritage and Modern Life
The convent was home to a number of distinguished figures, including Saint Bonaventure of Bagnoregio, the biographer of Francis, who served as his guardian between 1256 and 1257.
Today, the Convent of St Francis in Vicalvi remains a popular destination for pilgrims and tourists. In addition to its religious function, the complex is a vibrant cultural centre hosting concerts of sacred music, exhibitions and conferences throughout the year, preserving the memory of the “Poverello d’Assisi’s” visit to the heart of the Ciociaria region.
